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When curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble shop securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has maintained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary achievement.